Interesting new source of possible wind generators

Ive kept the copper wire so Ill be able to take it to the scrappy but not able to use it.
A bit of progress;
Ive taken the steel core off of the shaft, I hacksawed through the support arms and turned off the rest on the lathe.
Today I recieved a 150mm block of nylon to replace it, I think itll be better than wood and easy to machine etc, Im going to get that turned down to shape I want tomorrow and cut out the slots for the coils.

Hi everyone who participated in the stepper motor mod
Can i first say it was probably the most frustrating ,time consuming problem ive ever had!!!.
Im sure every one else felt the same who had a go!!!.(hi fugus and weel done....i really mean it,you never gave in)
I did however have some good results in the mods i carried out to this motor,
The turning resistance (iron losses, eddy currents,coil losses)have been reduced by half(actually measured properly )
There is vertually no trace of cogging,and only a very slight drop in performance,in relation to rpm.
I did have the problem shelved for some time as i got fed up with it!!!
The way i did it was to grind off 1mm thickness across the full width of of the iron rotor(very acurately using a specially made jig )and then bond and wrap very thin plastic covered gardening wire around the full length of the rotor/coil very tightly along its length.
In effect giving the rotor a permanent shell of plastic covered steel wire.
I did think of using mig welding wire initially but i decided to have insulated metal wire instead ,hoping to eliminate some eddy currents,if there were any!!!.
I suppose you could class it as a slotless motor,as all the slots are now covered permanently with bonded wire.
I did cover the whole mod in varnish to add more containment of the bonded wire.
Overall the air gap was restored to normal by using the wire.....vertually no trace of cogging....its easier to tun than the unmodified one.
Unlikely to come apart as the iron core and windings remain stationary in operation......its the magnets that do all the moving.
Thanks for reading and cheers.

Interested to know if there are any CONCLUSIONS overall using a hub motor as an alternator.

Perhaps some questions....

1. What is the best voltage to look for in low wind speed?

2. What provides a better system - brushed or brushless?

3. What is recommended - geared or non-geared?

4. Is it best to look for a higher wattage hub?

5. Are modifications required internally?

6. Any particular brand/model number good to look for?

7. Is a metal/aluminum hub better than a plastic?

8. Hubs are available for bicycles (front and rear), scooter, and motorcyle.... is there one better than the other?

In research phase.... many thanks.

klimb2hi